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[No Model.)

' R. H. WADLOW.

SHOE.

No. 281,166. Patented July 10, I883.

a PETERS Flwlolilhugupher. \Vashinglun. uIQ

' UNITED STATES RICHARD H. \VADLOW',

OF ATLANTA, GEORGIA.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 281,166, dated July 10,1883.

Application filed March 29, 1883. (No model.)

The invention relates more particularly to that class of shoes in whichboth the vamp and counter are made in one piece, with only a singleseam, and that at the central partof the heel.

In these shoes and in all others, so far as I am aware, heretofore made,they have been so cut that crimping has been necessary to greater orless extent, or force in lasting has been used sufficient to strain andpractically crimp the leather when it was drawn over the last.

I have aimed in making my improved shoe so to cut the piece of leatherand apply it to the last that I form the vamp and counter in one piecewithout seams, without crimping, and fitting smoothly and easily overthe last,

and fitting also easily and smoothly to the foot when the shoe is thusmade.

In the drawings, Figure 1 shows the piece forming the upper and counteras cut out ready for the last. Fig. 2 shows the flap, which may beformed out of the piece cut from the space A in Fig. 1. Fig. 3 is a sideelevation of the shoe. Fig. l is a front view of the shoe. Fig.

5 shows an extra or second flap, detached.

In making my improved shoe I cut the leather for the upper and counterin a single piece, in the form shown at B in Fig. 1. It will be observedthat the parts which form the heel are spread to a considerable width,and that a large space, A, is left between the parts which form thecounter. Ordinarily, in cutting the nppers and counters in one piece, inmaking shoes in this way, the two extensions which form the counter aremade by a single central slit, instead of the large space A in myimprovement. In addition to this, I cut out a narrow piece, (6,extending centrally from the opening A toward the toe, for the purposehereinafter explained. This piece I place upon the last, after wettingit, and it may be drawn over the last and secured by hand with out theuse of pinchersthat isto say, the form is such that no crimping or unduestrain is put upon any part of the leather. I first draw the leatherover the ball and tack it down on the last. The toe-is then turned upand drawn back. I then place the two thumbs, one on each side of thesmall of the instep, and press the flap inward over the last from theinstep to thetoe. This will throw the leather smoothly down upon thelast and avoid all wrinkles. In t-hisway the shoe is lasted withoutstraining the leather, and the leather will retain the shape of thelast. The sides are brought together in the rear to form the counter,and secured in the usual way. The slit a in the in step allows the heelparts to be separated more widely, and when they are brought togetherupon the last the instep will be forced up, and the leather, spreadingat the slit, will conform to the shape of the last without straining. Iprefer to cut the forward end of the slit a rounded, as shown, in orderto avoid any tearing of the leather. 0n the front of the shoe, and overthe space a, I stitch the flap O, which may be cut from theleather takenfrom the space A, and afterward shaped according to the fancy. It isstitched around the lower part, as at b b, the upper part forming theflap proper. The loose part of this flap may extend to any desiredheight, and be extended down over the vamp to break the width of thefoot. If I desire to make a high shoe, I add a piece, I), forming thetop of the quarter. This extends down on the inside of the counter,under the insole, and forms a lining. Its front edge is shown at thedotted line (Z, Fig. 3, and it is stitched, on the line 0 c of the samefigure, along the top of the counter. It requires no stitching on thefront edge, as it may be in one piece, leaving no seam whatever on theinside. lVhen the extension is applied to the shoe, the flap 0 should bebrought up approximately to its upper edge, and this forms a completeshoe, requiring only a suitable strap or fastening over the front. Forthis purpose I apply the straps e e, and I prefer the form of bucklegranted me in Letters Patent of the United States on the 14th day ofFebruary, 1882; but

any other buckle or fastening may be used, if preferred. When this pieceD is applied, I perforate it with a series of holes, as shown in Fig. 3,as I have found this to prevent the feet from becoming cold oruncomfortably warm in fact, to be a perfect means of ventilation. Theholes, it will be noticed, are punched around the ankle, which isthefirst part of the foot to perspire, and the heat escaping through theventilating-holes, the other part of the foot is prevented from becomingmoist, and consequently is kept warm. The ventilation of the shoe atthis point, I find, tends to keep the heat of the feet at an eventemperature at all times. As an additional extension for use, if it bedesired to extend the shoe higher, I use a supplemental flap, E. (Showndetached in Fig. 5.) It is cut from a single piece formed withbuttonholes f, which are fastened to buttons 9 on the extension D. Bythe use of this flap a highcut shoe may be obtained and all wrinkles inthe instep or bend of the foot avoided, and at the same time ease isgiven to'the bending of the foot, and the ankle is well supported. Theshape of the part shown in Fig. 1 about the slitted portion a allows theleather to run up high enough 011 the instep to give firm support andattachment for the flap, and holds it securely against being pressedforward by the foot. The flap prevents any spread of the leather, andmakes a secure piece of work.

It will be seen that my construction is adapted to three differentheights of shoes. I

may give Iit 'the height afforded. by the piece B without the extensionD, still using the 3 5 flap C and the buckle or equivalent fastening.With the same construction of the part B, I may add the extension D, or,in addition to that, I may add the extension E.

This shoe is intended to be used by any class 0 of persons, and may bemade of any kind of leather adapted for the purpose.

' The shoe may be provided with a tip and finished off in any othermanner known to those skilled in the art.

Having thus described my invention, what I claim is 1. An upper andcounter, B, for ashoe, formed in a single piece, having the space A andslit a enlarged at its extreme end, of substantially the form shown, andadapted to be lasted upon the shoe in the manner described.

2. The combination, in a shoe, of the piece B, flap 0, and extension D,said extension forming the inner lining of the counter, the parts beingcombined as set forth.

3. The combination, in a shoe, of the piece B, flap 0, extension. D, andflap E, all as set forth.

I11 testimony whereof I have signed my name to this specification in thepresence of two sub scribing witnesses.

RICHARD H. VVADLOWV. \Vitnesses:

W. N. PACE,

W. R. PERKINS.

